A Weekend in Le Marais
Nathalie Küpfer Henares takes us on a leisurely saunter through one of the most iconic - and stylish - Parisian neighborhoods
Musée des Archives
Place des Vosges
Le Marais is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris. It is a charming place where it feels like I have stepped back in time because of the lovely old buildings in the area, but it is also a delightfully cosmopolitan area brimming with unique cultural experiences, delectable food, and comfortably elegant accommodations. It is, for me, a great way to experience a different aspect of life in Paris.
If you are looking for an exquisite place to stay, I personally recommend Le Pavillion de la Reine. It is a beautiful gem of a place nestled in a quaint courtyard in the Place des Vosges, one of France’s oldest public parks.
Le Pavillion de la Reine presents an eclectic array of rooms and suites designed with impeccable taste by renowned interior designer Didier Benderli, exceptional modern amenities, as well as excellent dining and leisure options.
Offering a cross between contemporary comfort and a strong sense of France's regal history, it offers a cozy stay and access to the many attractions of the iconic 3rd and part of the 4th Arrondissements.
Le Petit Déjeuner
From here, you can easily walk to an excellent breakfast at the fabled Patisserie Carette beneath the arcades of the Place. It offers a feast for all the senses as both your eyes and palate will be more than satisfied with the experience.
Decorated by no less than the celebrated designer Hubert de Givenchy himself, the bistro-patisserie has retained its gilded Art Deco-era aesthetic. It thus serves as a gorgeous throwback to a bygone age of urban elegance and divine decadence.
Breakfasts here are a true feast for the senses. Even a simple repast of toast and scrambled eggs becomes a gateway into a world of flavorful invention at the hands of Carette's chefs. But I do recommend coming here for lunch as well for French classics done masterfully.
Make it a point to go early, though; it's a popular venue and can quickly get crowded.
The entrance at Patisserie Carette (Instagram)
Fine breakfast at Carette
Art in the 3rd Arrondissement
Following an excellent breakfast, I can take my time sauntering through the district and happily look into the many art galleries that occupy different spots throughout the Place. The Galerie Ariel Jakob is one of my favorite places for modern art, and it features a beautifully curated collection of sculptures, paintings, and even photographs.
Art galleries at Place Des Vosges
Cafés and restaurants at Place Des Vosges
Nathalie, the owner, and Isabel are the passionate gallerists behind this beautiful gallery and they both have an incredible eye when it comes to selecting artists and their artworks. I never miss an occasion to stop by, enjoy any ongoing exhibitions, and listen to the many insights they offer regarding the works they have on display.
If you want to learn more about the history of Paris, coming to the Musée Carnavalet is a must. Located along the Rue de Sévigné, the museum is housed in one of the rarest examples of Renaissance-era architecture and houses a wealth of artifacts from the storied past of the City of Light. Recently reopened after a five-year restoration initiative, it is a must for both history buffs and art lovers. I went there twice during my last visit to Paris and was fascinated both times by the different room interiors which are decorated in ways that chronicle centuries of style. Likewise, the courtyard is an excellent place to enjoy a cup of coffee while watching the world go by.
Enjoy coffee at Carnavalet courtyard
The Carnavalet is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture
I also love browsing through the shops along the Rue des Francs Bourgeois and the different side streets. They carry a number of French and international brands, so you’re bound to find something that catches your fancy.
Fresh and Vibrant Flavors
Museum-hopping and shopping are bound to give you an appetite, so lunch at Miznon Paris is a must.
This is certainly not a place for fine dining, but more for satisfying meals that call to mind the best sidewalk cafes in Tel Aviv or Jerusalem. The roasted cauliflower - a whole head beautifully seasoned and charred to a turn - is one of the best things on the menu and is an excellent example of modern vegetarian cooking.
The stuffed pitas loaded with freshly grilled meats and equally fresh vegetables are another must-try, as are Miznon’s takes on a number of classic French dishes, including tarte Tatin.
Enjoy the whole roasted cauliflower at Miznon (Website)
Fresh seasonal vegetables on the Miznon menu
A Night at the Opera
A night at the opera is also de rigueur during the season, and an evening at the Opera Bastille is an experience I always look forward to.
This beautifully modern structure is located in the 12th Arrondissement and was part of the late French President Francois Mitterand’s Grandes Opérations d'Architecture et d'Urbanisme (Fr.: Major Projects in Urban Planning and Architecture) and formally inaugurated in 1989.
Its unique location in close proximity to Le Marais makes it accessible for those staying in or visiting the area. That said, it is a perfect venue to catch the opera, ballet, or even concerts of contemporary music: the perfect cap to a glorious day in the district.
Supper at Vins Des Pyrénées makes a perfect finale to a night at the opera. Conveniently located within walking distance of the Opera Bastille, it offers a leisurely and delectable venue for an après-opera supper with friends. It helps that it stays open till around two in the morning, well beyond the usual time for most restaurants in the area. Vins Des Pyrénées is also an excellent place to sample Basque cuisine which is a delicious amalgam of French and rustic Spanish techniques and flavors.
Beetroot and goat cheese salad
Lamb croquettes
Un Beau Dimanche
Sundays in Le Marais should be enjoyed in a slow and leisurely manner.
I personally recommend starting the day by taking a walk through the exquisitely tended garden at the Hôtel de Sully along the Rue Saint-Antoine in the 4th Arrondissement. Another architectural project commissioned by Henri IV, the mansion at its heart was built in the style of Louis XIII and serves as another link between the past and present.
A short walk from the garden will lead you to Mass at the Parish of St Paul. Formally known as L'Église Saint-Paul Saint-Louis, the church is best known for its astounding Baroque aesthetic as well as its famed organs. Indeed, the church has gained fame for the excellence of its music and both locals and visitors look forward to its concerts at Christmas.
For aficionados of 20th century art, I also recommend a visit to Musée Picasso. Dedicated to the famed Catalan father of Cubism, the museum has a total of 5,000 examples of the master’s art along with archival mementos from his life in the tens of thousands. It is a great way by which to learn more and to appreciate the work of one of the great masters of Western art, as well as those of more contemporary artists.
Sundays are never complete without a relaxed lunch with friends and family. That brings us to Chez Janou, a Provencal restaurant whose specialties bring me back to happy childhood summers in Provence. The mood here is always convivial, even familial, and one can enjoy the fresh and zesty flavors of Southern France al fresco in fine weather. (Be sure to order the mousse au chocolat here. The portions are most generous and you will need a friend to share it with.)
St. Paul Church
Wonderful lunch at Chez Janou
