Experience A Magical Christmas in Zurich

Zurich | Switzerland

By: Anina F. Berger - Foreign Correspondent

Always a magical destination, the city of Zurich has a unique charm all year round but its sparkle becomes more vivid when the Holidays roll around and age-old traditions bring warmth and wonder.

Almost as soon as the last days of autumn and their golden light give way to crisp winter mornings, the first Christmas lights begin to illuminate the dark evenings. As you stroll through the city, the earthy-nutty scent of roasted chestnuts lingers in the air. Little by little, shop windows are transformed into enchanted and elegant worlds; and – if we’re lucky – we may even watch as the first snowflakes of the season begin to dance from the sky. Somewhere between all the lights and glowing candles, the haunting sound of Christmas carols and the sight of lush decorations being put up seem to awaken the desire for a little magic in all of us.

We at PORTORO are pleased to take you on a magical Christmas journey throughout the wonderful city of Zurich, Switzerland.

Shoppers can rest for awhile on warm blankets or sheepskins as they sip hot mugs of Glühwein made heady with spice

Shoppers can rest for awhile on warm blankets or sheepskins as they sip hot mugs of Glühwein made heady with spice

Traditional raclette huts welcome those with appetites sharpened by the cold winter air

Traditional raclette huts welcome those with appetites sharpened by the cold winter air

 

Where Cookies Sweetly Mark the Days of Advent

Officially, the first Advent Sunday marks the beginning of the Christmas season. But, for many of us, the preparations start well before the first of the four Sundays of the Season.

It is a period marked by many well-loved traditions that have been passed down from one generation to the next. Baking is one of them: every family cherishes their recipes for classic Christmas cookies but also add modern touches or recipes tasted during their travels. Baking is a soothing thing for many people: an escape from the stresses of modern living as it offers a moment of mindful stillness.

But the best part of it all? Finally getting to enjoy those cookies! Indeed, nothing beats the delicate crunch and soft chewiness of freshly-baked Zimtsterne (Romansh: cinnamon cookies similar to gingerbread biscuits) or Brünsli (Romansh: delicately spiced chocolate cookies; also known as Basler Brünsli.) The cookies are served on elegant plates with coffee or tea on the Advent Sunday afternoons and are happily shared with family and friends.

A delectable selection of homemade cookies

A delectable selection of homemade cookies

Mugs of Glühwein are often garnished with fresh or dried orange slices

Mugs of Glühwein are often garnished with fresh or dried orange slices

Homes are decorated in a magnificent manner

Homes are decorated in a magnificent manner

 

Put a Wreath on It

Whether homemade or storebought, wreaths are still a classic element of our Christmas decoration.

Traditionally our wreaths are made with fir twigs and may come with four candles as the classic Advent Wreath to mark the four Sundays, or are hung on windows and doors as festive decorations.

Changing up the classic twigs with pine cones or Spanish moss and decorating them with exquisite ribbons and bows add a modern and timeless touch.

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Samichlaus is Coming to Town

For children, the magic begins on the first of December when the first present of the Advent calendar is revealed – and the little ones are excited to find the tiny surprises hiding behind the windows as they count down the days to Christmas Eve.

The 6th of December is one of the high points of this countdown as the liturgical feast of St. Nicholas is marked by the appearance of his Swiss Doppelgänger (Deutsch: lookalike / counterpart) Samichlaus. The jolly old gentleman with his white beard and red cloak comes to every doorstep with jute sacks filled with clémentines (Fr.: small, sweet Mandarin oranges; colloquially known as ponkans or satsumas), nuts for roasting in the hearth, and plenty of sweets.

Family and friends weave in and out of each other’s houses from early in the morning to well into the evening. The day begins with children restless with anticipation and warm Grittibänze (Romansh: sweet brioche dough baked in the form of smiling men) – some of the best of which can be found at Confiserie Sprüngli where they are excellent paired with a hot cup of coffee.

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In Zurich, Even the Streets Will Sparkle

The glittering beauty of Christmas is not only confined to the privacy of our homes, but the entire city lights up in festive splendor. The lights in the streets sparkle; shops compete with each other with fabulous displays that grow more extravagant as you look from one window to the next. Even cafes are transformed into wondrous fairylands where anyone who stops in for coffee and hot chocolate or joins friends over a steaming pot of fondue becomes a character in an exquisite storybook.

After-work drinks now take place outdoors at the Christmas markets where the scent of freshly baked goods and mulled wine (British English: red wine simmered with citrus fruit, raisins, cinnamon sticks, and cloves) is woven with the sound of merry chatter, the Christmasy chime of sleigh bells, and the clash of skates gliding in a nearby skating rink.

Well into the night, we let ourselves be enchanted and imagine our stresses are a long way from us.

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Shopping Where Traditions Meet Modern Trends

Even with the modern-day convenience of online shopping, there’s just nothing quite like a day spent collecting those special gifts for those you love.

Whether you choose one of those Vichy handmade porcelain bowls from enSoie, the exquisite atelier in the heart of the old town; a pretty treat from Globus, a jewel of a department store; or delectable chocolates from the treasure trove of sweets that is Teuscher to give a loved one, have a little time for yourself – go ahead and indulge!

Treat yourself to scrumptious coffee and pastries at one of Zurich’s traditional coffee houses, Café Schober, located in the middle of the old town. Here, you will find some of the most delicious and beautifully crafted patisserie displayed like the Sugarplum Fairy’s wonderland.

Christmas display at the Globus department store

Christmas display at the Globus department store

Panettone and Prosecco at Globus department store

Panettone and Prosecco at Globus department store

 

The Magic of Christmas Eve

As the 24th of December rolls around, our Holiday traditions hit the high point.

The Christmas tree is decorated. In traditional homes, the tree is a riot of color with fancy ornaments that have been with the family for decades. Modern households, on the other hand, go for something more chic: staying with a single color palette and creating beautiful patterns with glass and light.

In every home, the table is festively set and family members start coming in from mid-afternoon to well into the evening. Everyone enjoys the bountiful spread of delectable food and fine wines, along with the company of well-loved faces.

Soon enough – just as the grownups are starting to relax and the children are restless with excitement – the candles on the tree are lit in anticipation of the Christkind (Deutsch: lit. Christ-child / the Baby Jesus) who will leave presents under the tree while the children aren’t looking. The tinkle of a bell signifies His departure, and there is a mad scramble as the children look for Him in vain – always and ever a puzzle.

 One would think that this is the grand finale of nearly six weeks of excited preparation, but we let the Spirit of the Season linger in our homes, letting ourselves to be enchanted for just a little longer.

 

Discover captivating blog posts dedicated to Switzerland here.

 

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