Palazzo Bozzi Corso
Lecce | Puglia | Italy
We find ourselves entranced by a mediaeval palazzo that has been transformed into a unique hotel that captures the elegance of the past and the dynamism of the present in the historic Apulian town of Lecce.
Having grown up in Lugano in Southern Switzerland, the history and culture of Italy – our neighbour which is just a few kilometres away – has always been very close to me. Crossing that nearby border has always left me both inspired and intrigued by the way the past and the present mingle in the streets of towns and cities that have stood for centuries. Southern Italy, in particular, is a part of the country I find quite interesting. When most people talk about Italy, they usually refer to major cities such as Rome, Venice, Florence, and Milan. In truth, the entire length and breadth of the country is filled with the richness of local culture, a great respect for centuries of storied history, and a strong sense of national (and regional) pride. This is particularly true of the province of Apulia – better known as Puglia – in the south, and especially so in the city of Lecce: a place proudly referred to as La Firenze del Sud, or ‘The Florence of the South.’
In the Land of the Midday Sun
The region where Lecce is located is essentially part of what is formally known as The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. But it is the region’s nickname which has captured the imagination of artists and writers throughout the ages: Mezzogiorno [It.: midday] because of the intense golden light that splashed vividly throughout the province at noon and in the early afternoon.
Lecce, in particular, is a picturesque city. Whenever I come here, I feel like I am stepping back in time and, depending on which part of the city, I am pleasantly surprised when I find myself amongst ancient Roman ruins like the amphitheatre near the piazza [It.: town square] of Saint Oronzo, the city’s patron, then walk to the different mediaeval and Renaissance-period churches or the palazzi [It.: palaces] built in later centuries. It all speaks of the people’s deep pride in their heritage and their history which goes back to the Third Century, BC.
But this sense of pride of place doesn’t just apply to the restoration and preservation of monuments and historical structures. Indeed, there is one particular place in Lecce where the past meets the present in a most beautiful manner that pays homage to one family’s history, inspired by those who came before and looking forward to the future that lies before them. This is the Palazzo Bozzi Corso.
Cappucino Room
Cappucino Room
A Lasting Legacy
I had the unique privilege of meeting Antonia Filali whose brother, Giacomo Fouad Filali, took on the challenge of transforming a rustic masseria [It.: fortified farmstead or farm-fortress] built in the 17th century into a luxurious fifteen-room boutique hotel formally inaugurated in 2015. Giacomo named his hotel La Fiermontina, in honour of their Italian grandmother Antonia Fiermonte who was the muse of two legendary 20th century artists René Letourneur and Jacques Zwobanda.
“My brother and I never met her,” Antonia says of her namesake who was considered one of the great beauties of her era. “But her absence deeply marked the both of us.”
Indeed, the erudite elegance that so characterised Antonia Fiermonte in her lifetime can be seen in the way Giacomo transformed a country farmhouse into a hotel that has since become renowned for its luxurious and eclectic accommodations. La Fiermontina currently has fifteen rooms and three suites à côté [Fr.: “next door” rooms] where rustic simplicity is the key aesthetic with vaulted ceilings and the rough purity of honey-coloured Lecce limestone are very much in use and balanced by the addition of modern amenities and exquisite furniture. Aside from these, I was also incredibly impressed by the quality and the diversity of the art displayed in the premises: pieces from the Filali family collection which range from massive stone sculptures to skilfully drawn sketches hanging on the walls made by truly great icons of art and design like Le Corbusier, Tobia Scarpa, and Charlotte Perriand.
The Garden
Breakfast Table
Corridor
The Epitome of Apulian Luxury
While La Fiermontina is all about country comfort given a welcome 21st century twist, the ten rooms that make up the accommodations at Palazzo Bozzi Corso just a stone’s throw away are a complete contrast with their emphasis on sheer luxury and tasteful opulence.
Described by many travel writers as ‘a homestay worthy of royalty,’ everything about this palazzo features regal splendour and a magnificence that is awe-inspiring yet unintimidating to those wishing to experience European hospitality at its finest.
Originally the home of a Corsican marquis who made his fortune in the exceptionally fine olive oils of the region, the Palazzo houses ten well-appointed suites that have been named after members of la famiglia Fiermonte [It.: the Fiermonte family] or personalities who played vital roles in their heritage. It is also a play on contrasts: the first thing that one notices upon arriving is the imposing Baroque façade of the hotel with the curved balconies and intricately wrought railings that were characteristic of Italian architecture during the 18th century. Guests are then ushered through a carriage entrance into a hidden courtyard that seems to look straight out of a period film, adding a romantic – even whimsical – touch to their welcome.
Suite René Letourneur
Creativity, innovation, and a vibrant imagination are what come into play in each of the ten suites. The Filalis commissioned several up-and-coming designers and young artists to give each room a unique personality – something that essentially echoes the rooms of a private home – that is as distinct as the person for whom it was named. Here, the modern and funky stand harmoniously alongside the ancient and classic: for example, Suite John & Yoko (named after the late Beatles frontman and his artist-wife) features a starkly modern aesthetic with playful pieces like a furry armchair in electric blue, while the Suite René Letourneur has a more classic look with its cream-and-grey colour palette and archaic fireplace. The addition of spa facilities – particularly in the case of the four Wellness suites – is a welcome touch, making a stay at the Palazzo an enchanting and relaxing escape from mundane cares.
Bringing together a 17th century farmhouse, an 18th century palace, and a 19th century villa which houses the Antonia Museum of Modern Art with more pieces from the Filali art collection, may seem to be an act of madness: a sheer folly that tries to juxtapose several different styles together. But the Filalis have made it work – and it works so beautifully: timeless in that it encompasses aeons of history, chic because of the modern comforts offered on site, and memorable all over. As Giacomo himself puts it, “I wanted to offer all of the architectural styles one can find in the magical city of Lecce.”
I would go so far as to say that simply stepping into the courtyard is more than magical: it is enchanting – even bewitching – and truly inspiring for those who love art and respect the great history of Italy.
Suite Jacques Zwobada
The Blue Room
The Blue Room
